What is it called when you review a restaurant?

The terms food critic, food writer, and restaurant critic can be used to describe a writer who analyzes foods or restaurants and then publishes the results of his findings. While these terms aren't strictly synonymous, they're often used interchangeably, at least in some circumstances. The fact that the article does not yet have the name of what it is (a restaurant review) suggests that this is, in fact, the first review in the media. But it's as much a guide, about writing gastronomic trips, as it is about restaurant reviews in the modern sense.